Raspberry Macaron Eye Makeup Tutorial | Using Cut-Crease Technique!

      Hello everyone! Is everyone having a good week? Ahh, what wonders a malfunctioning camera lens holds, when it's supposedly broken, then the next day it's working perfectly fine, as if a lens error message had never come up.... Am I the only one with such a peculiarly functioning camera? Alas, well, I now have a working camera, and couldn't be happier that I was able to take photos of this look I was talking about! I was able to tweak this berry-pink toned cut crease eye makeup that I wore in my last video on my channel, and decided to make a list of the steps I took to achieve it! I have a couple of variations of this look: 

Variation 1

Variation 2

Inspired from the color palette of raspberry macarons (never had them, but have tried blueberry! Yumm), I added just a bit of a twist to that palette with the peachy color in the inner crease to balance out the heavily laden reddish berry tones on the outside. A pop of a pink metallic on the lid really pulled the look together! I made an attempt at a white graphic winged crease liner in the second variation, but admittedly the other eye looked absolutely ridiculous and so I only took a picture of one eye for that, as the white liner on the other eye, overall, had the same shape, but was dispersed soooo much thicker and was a bit wobbly.

Here are the shadows I used! (Steps to achieve this look will follow, and after that will be the Product Breakdown!)

Swatches Top to Bottom: a pink from the Sleek Original Palette | Makeup Geek 'Mai Tai' | Urban Decay 'Alchemy' from the Full Spectrum Palette | LORAC 'Mango' (now discontinued, but any white-based peachy pink will do)

Steps & Technique

Step 1: The Base

I used a regular eyeshadow primer all over the lids (Wet 'n Wild Photo Focus Primer is a good translucent one, but if you have a primer with some coverage, I would recommend that, so you don't have to do an extra step), and I extended the primer to the area past my brow. A white cream base was used on the mobile lid (and we all know what everyone uses for that: NYX Milk!). I used a translucent powder to set, avoiding the mobile lid with it, as I knew I was going to reinforce that white pencil later when carving the cut crease.

Step 2: Seamless Transition!

A pale satin peachy pink shadow was used and blended with a dense blending brush into and above the inner and outer crease as my transitional color (I used a dense brush for this step only because the shadow I used is quite sheer). The shade I used was the long-discontinued LORAC 'Mango' Shadow Single. 

Step 3: Work That Crease!

     For this step, only two colors were used in my crease. With a smaller tapered, rounded loosely-bristled crease brush, I worked a reddened berry-plum shade from Urban Decay called Alchemy into the outer two thirds of my crease (this shade is one of the better performing ones from the Full Spectrum palette. and it wears foreva too!). I found that the shimmer in this shadow yielded more of a lightly satin finish on the eyes, but it looks quite scarily frosty in the pan.  

     The second shade I used with the same small blending brush in the inner third of my crease was Makeup Geek's Mai Tai. This is a beautiful duochrome, as the base color is peach, but it flashes a fuchsia shimmer! With both colors, I extended them upwards towards my browbone (but not on it! lol) so the colors can be seen prominently when the eyes are fully open.

Step 4: Lower Lashline

I then worked those same two shades with a small smudger brush onto the lower lashline.

Step 5: Carving...With a Brush?

Time to carve out the mobile lid! With this, you can use a light concealer, a skintone eyeshadow base that sets, or just a white pencil, like I did. I just took a small flat concealer brush with some product on it (NYX Milk) and painted the product onto and just above my entire mobile lid, just reinforcing it. This created a carved out edge across the whole space of the lid, and creates a seamless, half-moon shape or egg shape (depending on your eye shape and where the socket of your crease naturally forms) and this is just one of the many cut crease techniques that make the lid shade and the crease work more prominent and pop more than they would without the technique!

Step 6: A Bit of Shimma, Baby!

Ready for some glitz and sparkle on that lid? Take a pearly or metallic pink shade (depending upon your preference of finish), and apply it with a small shader brush onto the whole lid, making sure to keep within the line space of that cut edge! I used the color from the Sleek Palette with a damp brush, to add intensity and a foiled effect!

Step 7: Finishing Up!

If you want to go a bit crazy with it, like I did, you can take a matte white liquid liner or white pencil liner and softly draw a line right on the outer third of the carved edge (I wouldn't recommend NYX Liquid Liner for this, though; that was the one I used, and the brush is just weird, and a bit flimsy for line-work like this. Not saying that it's a bad liner, just not for this functionality, unfortunately. Some winged liner and mascara, and voila! You're done! :)

Product Breakdown

left to right: LORAC 'Mango' Eyeshadow Single | Urban Decay 'Alchemy' from the Full Spectrum Palette | Sleek iDivine Eyeshadow Palette in 'The Original' (shade used: a metallic pink, third shade from the left on the bottom row)

Makeup Geek Duochrome Eyeshadow in 'Mai Tai'

MAC Fluidline in 'Wholesome' (limited edition)

Some Brushes I Used: EcoTools small detail brush | Real Techniques concealing brush | EcoTools small blender/shading brush 

Have a beautiful day, everyone!

💋xoxo-Cailee